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Main dishes continue the Thai-ish flavors but most stop short of that cuisine's quick burn. Table favorites included diver scallops, with the sweetness of the flesh juxtaposed against a sweet-sour blend of tamarind and orange zest and juice; the rack of lamb with a Dijon-merlot sauce, a special that Mr. Sittikul says he makes at home for his children; and the slow-roasted duckling with that day's berry sauce.

But it was the token Thai dishes that were so delicious that they left everyone wanting more. The chicken curry benefited from its broader perspective; rather than chunks of chicken, Mr. Sittikul begins with a grilled chicken breast, first marinated in olive oil, rosemary and soy sauce, which he serves with a rich green curry begun with house-made curry paste. The pad Thai, too, was a fine variation of a classic, with its jumbo shrimp, crushed peanut garnish and lime-tamarind flavoring.

The vegetables were standouts. Soy-braised mushrooms and baby bok choy was glorified by a ginger and sesame oil; the grilled Asian eggplant was habit-forming, with its warm and earthy vinaigrette of fish sauce, lime juice, palm sugar and Thai basil.

Desserts were myriad and each one could have been a sophisticated still life. The table favorite was a tart with a nice crisp crust, a gently sweet lemon cream and a pile of glazed blueberries on top - even though the blues weren't the sweetest. We ate every crumb, but still. It would have taken second place if there had been a sticky rice-coconut-mango dessert in the house.

Siri's Thai French Cuisine

2117 Marlton Pike West

Cherry Hill

(856) 663-6781

www.siris-nj.com

VERY GOOD

ATMOSPHERE Elegant, bustling and a bit noisy.

SERVICE Professional and accommodating.

SMOKING No smoking allowed.

WINE LIST Bring your own.

RECOMMENDED DISHES Spicy chicken, mushroom and lemongrass soup; Caesar salad; squid with sweet chili sauce; diver scallops over field greens; roasted peppers, portabella mushrooms and goat cheese; smoked duck breast over greens; chicken satay with peanut sauce; mushrooms with baby bok choy, grilled eggplant with Thai basil lime vinaigrette; scallops with tamarind and orange, pad Thai, pesto-crusted rack of lamb with mustard, half-duckling in berry glaze; blueberry tart.

PRICE RANGE Appetizers, $4 to $9; main dishes, $14 to $28; specials, $5 to $29; desserts, all $6.

HOURS Lunch, Monday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 3 p.m. to 10 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, 3 p.m. to 11 p.m.

CREDIT CARDS All major.

RESERVATIONS Recommended at all times.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS The restaurant is wheelchair accessible.

IF YOU GO Cherry Hill is a suburb of Philadelphia. To get there, take Interstate 295 to Route 70 West. Go about four miles. Make a U-turn to reach the restaurant, which is opposite the old Garden State Racetrack.